Carbon is the chemical element with symbol C and atomic number 6. Watch cases are made from it as carbon fibre and forged carbon. Watchmakers value it because it is light, does not rust, causes no allergies and is not affected by magnets. It is also black, and it resists scratches and bending.
How is carbon fibre made?
In carbon fibre, the carbon forms long strands. These strands are braided into a cloth. The cloth can then be moulded into whatever shape is needed. A layered version is made a different way. Thin sheets of fibre are stacked, with each sheet pointing in a different direction. Richard Mille calls its layered material NTPT. It came from the sailing industry.
What is forged carbon?
Forged carbon starts with measured amounts of carbon, cut in advance. These go into a mould, where they are heated and pressed. At Audemars Piguet, chopped pieces of fibre were packed into moulds and heated in a vacuum. The brand keeps the temperature secret. A forged carbon case comes out of the mould nearly finished. Only a little milling is needed for the screws, the strap fittings and a few other areas. The fibres settle in random directions inside the mould. As a result, each piece looks different, which sets forged carbon apart from woven carbon fibre.
Who first used forged carbon in watches?
Audemars Piguet was the first to use forged carbon fibre for watch cases. The brand got the idea after meeting Vincent Duqueine. Its first forged carbon watch appeared in 2007. It marked the brand’s sponsorship of a Swiss sailing team. Sailing runs through the material’s story in watches, since Richard Mille’s layered NTPT also came from that industry.
Does carbon have drawbacks?
Carbon resists scratches and keeps its shape, but it reacts to a hard knock differently from steel. Where steel usually just dents, carbon can crack or even tear. Age shows too. Over time, the surface of a carbon fibre case can start to fray, a little like pilling on fabric. Carbon also turns up on watches in another form. It is the base of DLC and A-DLC coatings.
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