Collectors’ word

Reference number

A reference number is the ID of a watch model, showing which version of that model a watch is. It sets one watch apart from the others in a brand’s range. At some brands, its letters and digits also tell you details such as the case material or the bezel.

Not to be confused with

A reference number is not a serial number. The reference names the model, so it is shared by every watch of that version. The serial number names one particular watch. Put simply, the reference tells you what the watch is, and the serial number tells you which one it is. The two can sit close together, so it helps to know which is which. A model number is the wider idea. A reference number is a kind of model number, used to set one watch apart from the rest of a brand’s range.

Where do you find a reference number?

The reference number is usually found in one of three places. The first is the caseback, the metal plate on the back of the watch. The second is between the lugs, the parts of the case that hold the strap or bracelet. The third is the watch’s papers. On Breitling watches, start with the caseback. The reference is often engraved there, just above the serial number.

How do you read a Patek Philippe reference?

A Patek Philippe reference carries several details. The first digit usually shows whether the watch is a men’s or a women’s model. The letters show what the case is made of. They are short forms of French words, because the brand is based in Geneva. The digits after the slash describe details such as the bezel, the bracelet or the case. Early references could be much shorter. Patek Philippe’s first Calatrava was given the two-digit reference 96.

How do Rolex references work?

Rolex uses a six-digit reference, and has done so since 2000. Before that it used five-digit references, and earlier still, four-digit ones. Each digit and letter in a Rolex reference tells you something about the watch, such as its model, bezel and material. So two watches of the same model can carry different references when one of these details differs.

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