Collectors’ word

Grey market

Grey market describes authentic watches sold by dealers who have no authorisation from the brand that made them. They are genuine pieces, not copies. Prices are often much lower, because brand pricing rules do not bind these dealers. The trade-off is that the brand’s official warranty does not cover them.

How much cheaper are grey market watches?

Grey market fine watches usually sell at 30 to 40 percent off. Authorised dealers work under different terms. Their contracts usually cap discounts at 20 percent. Grey dealers have no such agreement with the brand, so its pricing policy does not hold them back. That freedom lets them cut prices far deeper than an authorised shop can.

What is the catch?

The watch itself is the real thing, made by the original brand. What is missing is the brand’s backing for the sale. Brands do not honour their official warranty on watches bought from grey dealers. A buyer pays less at the till but gives up that cover. Whether the saving is worth it depends on how much the buyer values a warranty from the maker.

What happened in the Omega and Costco case?

Costco bought Omega watches through the grey market, and that purchase is at the centre of a well-known US legal case. The watches were genuine Omegas. Omega’s claim relied on a copyrighted globe design on the backs of the watches. The dispute reached the US Supreme Court. The justices split 4 to 4, so the Ninth Circuit’s ruling against Costco stayed in place.

Where it comes from

The label grey market came from manufacturers in the late 1980s. They used it for products that had been resold. The goods in question are genuine, made by the original brand, not counterfeit. What sets them apart is the seller. A grey dealer is a watch dealer with no authorisation from the brands whose watches it sells.

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