Collectors’ word

Authorised dealer

An authorised dealer, or AD, is a shop that sells a watch brand’s products under a formal contract with the maker. It gets its stock directly from the brand and stamps the buyer’s warranty card. A watch bought from an AD carries the maker’s full international warranty.

How does an authorised dealer work?

The shop buys its stock straight from the manufacturer and sells it on to the buyer. The arrangement places demands on the dealer too. Brands require their ADs to buy a set minimum number of watches every year. Prices usually follow the maker’s suggested retail price, and discounts on popular models are rare. Where demand is high, the dealer does not simply sell to whoever walks in. Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet give their scarce steel sports models only to the dealers’ best customers.

Why does the stamped warranty card matter?

Omega shows how closely the warranty is tied to the dealer. Its warranty is valid only when the card is dated, filled in correctly and stamped by an authorised Omega retailer. The card records the watch’s serial number, reference and purchase date, along with the full name and address of the shop that sold it. Omega tells buyers to purchase only from an Omega boutique or one of its authorised retailers. It warns that a watch bought outside that network may be damaged or fake, and may not be covered by a warranty.

How does Patek Philippe define its authorised retailers?

Patek Philippe says that any retailer missing from its official directories is not one of its authorised retailers. In other words, a shop must appear in those directories for Patek Philippe to treat it as authorised. The brand’s network also matters after the sale. Patek Philippe says its watches must be serviced only by its authorised retailers or by its authorised service centres.

Not to be confused with

The grey market is not part of the AD network. It sells goods through channels the original maker has not approved. A grey seller does not buy its stock from the brand under contract, and it is not an authorised retailer that can stamp the card. Grey sellers have offered Swiss watches for up to 40% less. That saving can come at a cost, because brands such as Omega say watches bought outside their network may lack warranty cover.

Checked